Favorite Parts of the Trip!

A quick video (thanks to Corrine) of everyone's favorite times in Ecuador:

Team Section 4 Gentlemen: Encounters at the Summit

Jake with Cotopaxi in the background.

With bonds forged at the beginning of 2009, Jake and Shal formed a team with an already-present strong foundation. Copper and tin - strong on their own, but stronger together. Proudly representing the classy side of Section 4, the two were roped together and set off on Cotopaxi towards the back of the pack.

The initial going was easy - a bit fun, maybe - Jake aided by a solid four hours of sleep and Shal aided by the motivation to not be within earshot of Jake (who was singing along to his iPodic source of motivation for much of the trip). We quickly conquered the first portion of the trip, stopping for a brief rest and for our stoically silent guide (Falco? I seriously never got his name) to rope us together - Jake in the middle; Shal at the end.

The grueling trip began in the inky blackness disrupted only by the surprisingly-sprawling Quito skyline. Step left, step right, lean on the ice axe. Repeat. Repeat, and repeat. Breaks were taken liberally, as we were cognizant of the last push being the toughest. A typical scene was Shal resting his legs and staring down from whence we came as Jake popped more caffeine and bobbed to the beat of his music, scared of sitting down should he not have the energy to rise once more.

2 A.M., 3 A.M., 4 A.M.... the hours ticked by with little changing save the Big Dipper slowly creeping up from the horizon. Upon reaching a particularly precarious spot - a path about a foot wide with a steep drop off, the mental games became hardest. The headlamps ahead of us were so elevated - impossibly high - how were we to climb this? It became even more important to focus on just the next steps and motivating each other, but our impassive guide remained ever impassive - his eyes seemingly challenging us. "Get up. GET UP. I do this three times a week."

We pushed on in a dream-like trance. Dawn began to break only to cruelly reveal the hardest part of the climb - a 10 or 15 meter scramble up a steep ice wall that required scaling on all fours.

Shal: "I have nothing left in me."

Jake (yelling to himself as much as Shal): "LET'S GOOOOOOOOOO"

Music playing is the intro to Sweet Child of Mine

With the guide tugging Jake and Jake tugging Shal, away we went - plant, plant, kick, kick, climb. Repeat, repeat, and repeat until we crawled over the edge. Turning our eyes upwards, we began to see the first several groups on the climb downwards. Inspired as much by their ascent as not wanting to let them down, onward we went.

About 30 minutes later, we rounded the corner to see Niki and Kirsten in awesome spirits on top. We exchanged hugs and a kiss or two, then were immediately overwhelmed by the majesty of the view.

Jake sank awestruck to his knees staring into the rising sun as we hovered several thousand feet above the strato-cloud level. This was a view and accomplishment both of us will hold for the rest of our lives.

CONGRATS BROTHER! WE DID IT!!!

Team 西安戰士 (Attempt) Summit Post

View of Summit from the Refugio

For a second, I thought Cotopaxi was an illusion. Covered in glistening snow, the summit seemed so near yet it was so far away. Eyeing the summit from the Refugio, I told myself repeatedly “This is it!”, I pictured myself climbing Cotopaxi, and before long, I was actually climbing the volcano under starlight (and headlamp light).



Learning how to use crampons and ice axes

Navin and I formed the group 西安戰士 (translation: Xi An Warriors). With steady steps and a lot of crampons and ice ax actions, we completed the first one and a half hours of the climb and reached the glaciers. At that point our guide, Marco, roped Navin and I to him and told us that we had four more hours to go. As each minute passed, we got higher in altitude and breathing got more difficult. From 17,000 ft onwards, I was in constant battle with the altitude. I was hyperventilating, my head started spinning, and I was collapsing uncontrollably every couple of steps I took. It was very scary. This part of the climb made hiking from the parking lot to the Refugio seemed so sweet and lovely. Millions of thoughts went through my mind, I told myself I did not go all the way to Ecuador not to summit, I thought of KY (who got injured from the bike ride), I thought of the team, I thought of my friends and family. I tried to concentrate on the music I was listening to, I tried drinking from my frozen water supply, I tried mowing down a chocolate bar… Finally, Marco had to let Navin join Team Naked Chocolate Spoon as each recovery from my collapse took longer and longer.

With a slower pace, I pushed on further, I remembered the ice caves, I remembered the cliffs, I remembered the ice bridges, funny how I couldn’t shut out the breathtaking view of Cotopaxi even when my head was about to explode. At around 5,600m (or 18,300 ft), I finally had to turn back as I was literally out of breath. I was 2.5 hours away from the summit. Yes, it was disappointing when I realized I wouldn’t be able to summit after all the efforts I had put in. But, I was proud of myself for pushing my limits and did not give up right away. After all, 18,300 ft was my personal altitude record! I am extremely proud of all my teammates who reached the summit; they have inspired me (especially you, Marcy!). I had added a new goal in life: Summit Cotopaxi.


Going down the mountain was more memorable than going up; I could almost feel air pushing its way into my lungs as I stumbled down Cotopaxi. It was apparent that I couldn’t balance myself, so Marco had me lay down on my back, and he told me to “just slide”. Sliding on glacier was SOOOO FUN, though at the time, I was less capable of appreciating the fun part of glacier sliding. Bumpy ice lumps were not my favorite part of the ride, however, I did not have the time or the energy to be concerned about rashes or bruises. Catching me by surprise, the sun rose from the side of the mountain as I was speeding down the glacier, again, I did not have the time or the energy to take a picture (bummer). I can only imprint that view in my memory; it was too magnificent for words.

Being on the highest active volcano on Earth was amazing so as being part of the first WILD team. I have learned more about team building and leadership within these 8 days than the time I have spent in all my management classes combined (a.k.a. Program Management and Management Principles). Why aren’t we replacing those classes with WILD expeditions yet?

Now the more important question: Who wants to climb Cotopaxi with me???

Team Chocolate Naked Spoons: 1/12/2011, Summit Day

Kat, Corinne, and Navin take on Cotopaxi:

(Cotopaxi's steep shadow)

 11:00pm on Jan 11^th. I wake up to the sound of Marco, our lead guide, telling us to gear up. This is it. All of those stadium bleacher runs and hikes around Quito were all in preparation for this moment. We have quasi-slept for a few hours at the Jose Ribas Refugio, basecamp for the Cotopaxi climb at 15,840 feet. Breakfast is served at this odd hour: pepto bismal-colored yogurt with generic corn flakes and hot tea. We are psyched and hoping to reach the summit at 19,347 feet, but aware that our bodies might not be up for the challenge. Our primary goal is to return back down the volcano safely. The wind is howling, but the sky is clear. So far, the weather is on our side.

12:00pm on Jan 12th. Gear check: ice axe, plastic boots, crampons, gators, harness, headlamp, three warm layers on the bottom, four warm layers on the top, gloves and hand warmers. I-pods are ready with techno playlists and snacks are accessible. Corinne and I (Team Naked Spoons) are the last team ready to go. Each of us has chosen a buddy of similar endurance to summit with. Corinne wisely chose me over her boyfriend, as that could have resulted in neither of them summiting or a nasty breakup. With enthusiasm and excitement, we join the rest of our crew. The 14 members of team WILD, plus 7 local guides, click on our headlamps and slowly proceed one by one up the world’s highest active volcano.

We flawlessly walked in unison, employing the German step technique with our ice axes that our guides taught us the day before. Our movement resembles a slow-motion, three-point sideways shuffle straight uphill. After an hour and a half we stop so that buddies could be roped into their guides. Corinne and I are tied to Juaquin, a suave Ecuadorian with great patience for our already adopted “slow and steady” mantra.

(Watch your step!)

Each team set their own pace, with the Heroes in a Half Shell (Barrett, Ryan, and Andrew N) taking the lead. Corinne and I held up the caboose and added team member, Navin (our chocolate spoon), when Angie unfortunately began feeling ill. For the next several hours, we, Team Chocolate Naked Spoons, climbed the ever-steeper slope, continuing the sideways shuffle while trying to keep a consistent pace and not get tangled in each other’s rope. I couldn’t help but mention every time we passed a deep crevasse that was surely an expressway to the depths of the volcano. Corinne, fearing vertigo-induced vomiting, gently reminded me that she did not want to be made aware of these impressive sights. The snow glimmered like Swarovski crystals and we could not distinguish the bright stars from the glow of the other Team WILD headlamps higher up the mountain. I knew we were getting really high when I kept mistaking Jupiter’s bright reflection for a flashlight on the top of a nearby mountain. Again I was distracted by the lights of Quito in the distance, growing larger with every foot of elevation we gained. After nearly loosing my footing several times from these breath-taking nighttime vistas, I decided it was best to keep my head down and avoid a dangerous misstep into an endless abyss.

(The Chocolate Naked Spoons: Navin, Corinne, Kat)

We all had bouts of nausea and exhaustion, brought on by this relentless climb to reach the stars, but fortunately it was not enough to sway our determination to continue. Short breaks were essential for our team’s morale and energy level. We tried to refuel with delicious dark chocolate, Lara, and Cliff bars, but our bodies rejected these normally delicious treats. Juaquin brilliantly packed hot water in a thermos which he graciously shared with Kat and Navin. We had foolishly only brought camel back bladders, with water hoses that froze almost instantly in these conditions. With the sun now peeking over the horizon and Jauquin estimating 45 minutes until we reached the summit, the Chocolate Naked Spoons cranked up our most danceable playlists and reached for our prized reserve fuel: caffeine-rich energy goo. These items, combined with hard-headed determination, were going to get us through the toughest stretch which included a vertical ice wall climb. After 45 minutes Juaquin recalculated and told us to expect yet another 45 more minutes until the top. Fortunately, our spirits were lifted as we passed Team Gordo (Tripp and Andrew D), Team Turtles in a Half Shell (Ryan, Andrew N, Barrett), and Team Bad A** Blondes Nail Her (Niki and Kirsten), who had made it to the summit and were on their way back down. Their encouragement gave us the much-needed motivation we required for the final section of the final ascent.

(We got this, no big deal)

Those last steps to the top were a blur. I was panting like a golden retriever to keep oxygen flowing to my lungs. Dizziness. Nausea. Delusion. And then suddenly- I realized where we were. The top! Corinne and I collapsed in exhaustion and tears fell as we took in the beauty around us. Navin stayed quiet, but I know he was in awe of this surreal moment. We made it!

 

(Sign for Kristin at the summit. You were there in spirit, KY!)

After catching our breaths, we realized that team members Jake and Shal were also at the top. We all exchanged high fives and grabbed the camera in a feeble attempt to capture the panorama views from (arguably) one of the highest points on earth on a beautiful, sunny morning. The volcano’s crater was just below us now, emitting sulfur-rich fumes. We rejoiced in our success for about ten minutes before we remembered that we were gasping for oxygen and it was time to head back down for thicker air. See the video below:

(Ominous Cotopaxi Crater)

I am the only one that claims this, but the hardest part of this climb was coming down. Exhaustion as well as the steep slope, combined with weak knees makes the descent perhaps more dangerous than the ascent. Juaquin moved me to the back because my legs turned to Jello. Navin led us down to a point where Jauquin decided it was safe to unleash us. He instructed me how to slide down safely by self-arresting with my ice-ax, in order to save my knees from further pain. Corinne and Navin, however, somehow never got this training and proceeded to slide uncontrollably like ragdolls for several hundred feet, terrifying on-lookers. They finally came to a stop, but neither one was moving. I was frozen with fear until suddenly, I saw Navin pull himself to his feet and Corinne gesture something with her arm. It was a close call, but everyone was still in one piece, thankfully.

(Corinne takes it all in)

About 20 minutes later we have all reunited at the Jose Ribas Refugio, exhausted and elated, but intoxicated and proud to have officially dominated Cotopaxi. We are ready and deserving of hot showers and cold beers to celebrate this victory. The Chocolate Naked Spoons cannot wait for the next WILD adventure!

(Cotopaxi, from the porch of Secret Garden Hostel- Thanks for everything Caroline!)

Team Bad Ass Blondes Nail Her: 1/12/2011, Summit Day

Niki: “Are we halfway yet?”

Cesar (guide): “Uh…no.”

Niki: “Oh.” (Insert choice expletive here)

Kirsten: “I think I’m dying.”

We may be blonde, but we were the third team and first all-female team to summit Cotopaxi at 6:00am, just in time for a spectacular sunrise. It was a grueling climb, commencing in the freezing darkness at 12:30am. Around 2:00am we separated into teams, and team Bad Ass Blondes showed Cesar (our guide) how Nic School ladies climb mountains. About halfway through the climb, the altitude sickness started to kick in. Neither of us had taken any altitude sickness medication, preferring to prove to ourselves that we could climb Cotopaxi all on our own. Kirsten suffered from blurry vision, light-headedness, and nausea. Niki felt light-headed, nauseous, and the sight of sheer drop-offs into oblivion, coupled with deep crevasses only further induced yearnings to vomit.

But the Bad Ass Blondes persevered despite feeling awful and exhausted. Luckily we had an amazing guide, Cesar, who let us stop to desperately gulp the thin air in search of oxygen to fuel our burning muscles. Upon hitting the crux of the climb, the last 90 minutes, which consisted of never-ending steep climbs at over 5000m, Cesar gave us some wise advice: “it’s going to be really hard. Think about things that make you happy, like sex, or your boyfriend, or your family.” Niki pushed through the false summits by focusing on putting one foot in front of another. Kirsten was inspired by Niki’s perseverance and continued on despite the pain. At long last Cesar announced: “only 10 minutes, you can do it!” And before we knew it, we were standing on top of Cotopaxi, closest point to the stars, watching the sunrise over the smaller volcanoes.

Kirsten felt an overwhelming sense of accomplishment; tears welled up in her eyes and her face was blue and purple fromthe cold. Niki stood on the top, unsure of how she’d come to be there, but once realization dawned, she quickly unzipped her jacket to fish out her camera. The climb had been frigid and windy, her iPod had frozen halfway through, and she found a layer of frozen moisture inside her jacket. She managed to take some pictures of the crater and surroundings before she noticed that she couldn’t feel her fingers and they were starting to turn purple and white (woo frostbite!), but once again Cesar came to the rescue and offered to document the descent. It was on the descent that we noticed how epic, sketchy, and awe inspiring the landscape was. After a few hours we reached the Refugio once again; barely able to move, but with the most empowering sense of accomplishment. We did it!

Vaguely Spiritual Ponderings About Hiking Up Steep Things

There is something empowering about being able to hike up a steep ridge at 15 000ft, feeling not tired, but instead motivated to go even higher. There is something liberating about being able to scramble up a muddy, rocky slope with a drop off into a deep valley only one foot away. And there is a revelation when you figure out how to move your body and its muscles in ways that enable you to balance on slim rocky ledges, slide through volcanic ash, ascend efficiently, and descend without hurting your knees. The ability to engage your muscles to fine-tune your movement, protect your body, and do it all in a controlled and graceful fashion, demonstrates a primal bond with nature. Being out in the wild, having to rely on the connection between mind and body; there is nothing that makes you feel more alive. When this is combined with a supportive team to share the experience, there is nothing that makes you feel more a part of everything, whatever that may be. Your movements, the team’s energy, the land; everything becomes unified--one flow of existence.

1/10/2011 - The Distant Bride and the Rough Ride

Today was not the best day ever. We decided to change the pace after a few days of hiking and begin our prolonged courtship of Cotopaxi with a mountain bike ride. We had a rough start with a 6am wake-up following a long day on Rucu, but the group was forcefully invigorated by the crisp air. The ride began at 15,000 ft in the parking lot below base camp (Jose Ribas Refugio). Cotopaxi was being coy with us, enshrouded in a veil of clouds and damp fog. Dietrich was trying hard to look manly in shorts, but failing miserably by hiding out in the car. 

Our guides from the Biking Dutchman offered us a quick biking lesson. One bike stood out among the others as it was clearly more expensive than all the other bikes combined. Tripp eagerly asked our guide Fernando who got to ride this pimped out bike. Fernando, stern in the face, replied, “that one’s mine,” as he quickly moved between Tripp and the bike. We all geared up and headed down the ash jeep trail.

The first part of the descent was painful with icy shards and heavy winds assaulting our exposed faces. We sped down from the mountain to escape the brutal weather, zig-zagging through the switchbacks one after the other and dodging oncoming traffic. After 8km of riding, we reached the base and stopped to regroup with all 15 and the two jeeps bringing up the rear. Kirsten experienced a nice volcanic rock massage while Barrett and Nourafshan invented a new form of high altitude corn-hole. We pushed on another 5km on undulating terrain to stop at the park entrance for lunch. Cotopaxi was starting to play a little rough. Corinne came through with a nice shiner on the shin. Marcy took a little spill but pretended like her palms were supposed to resemble mincemeat. If there’s one thing about Marcy we’ve learned about on this trip, it’s that her tenacity is limitless. If she were tasked with the role of Sisyphus, the boulder would be reduced to rubble before she relented. By now, it was time to get our chow on in preparation for a grueling round two. The grub consisted of pasta with what was either mango, carrot or squash (the verdict is still out), some spanakopita, liquid sugar with a bit of tea, and Ecuadorean chocolate brownies (Jake says - they were sooo good!).

Round two did not go as planned. We hit some pretty rocky sections and the front group was descending hard and fast. Kristin (KY) lost control of her bike and took a pretty bad spill. It could have been any one of us. She was lying on her back in a lot of pain. Our biking guide, ever the EMT, had her move her arm and determined it was a bruise and nothing more serious. The majority of the group continued on for the last 8km, as Kristin followed in the jeep with Corinne’s company. The group descended, hopping rocks, splashing through puddles and evading chasing dogs. By the end of it all, we managed to bike all the way from 15,000ft on Cotopaxi to our hostal, the Secret Garden Cotopaxi.

When we got back, Kristin’s condition worsened. She felt a pop in her shoulder when trying to change out of her biking gear and was in immense pain. We determined the best bet was to get her to a hospital for an x-ray. We sent our translator and local guru, Kat, trip co-leader Ryan, and ever-resourceful Corinne to escort Kristin to the nearest hospital 45min away. What was supposed to be a 2-3 hour trip turned into an 18hr adventure involving painfully rocky roads, a closed medical clinic, and a long drive to Quito to experience the chaos of Ecuador’s public health system. The team ended up staying in Quito and getting KY on the earliest flight out of the country the following morning.

All the while, the group at the Secret Garden was sitting by the phone and managing to be stressed out about KY’s condition in the most relaxing place on earth. We had a candlelit family dinner, watched an unreal sunset over the mountains, and witnessed a Polish-Australian dance party. We had Dalmatians and Dachshunds to keep us company. Unfortunately we were receiving some botched messages from our distant crew, via Kristin and Co.’s driver (in Spanish) to our hostess, Carolina, and then to us. After many lost texts and cell phone calls later, we got a direct update from our emergency crew. Kristin was heading out of the country and the other three would join us in the morning.

Corinne, Ryan and Kat returned to the group the following day for lunch in Secret Garden Cotopaxi. We were back together minus one, and were more resolute than ever to climb Cotopaxi. It was time to try to return to normalcy, and hit the mountain hard. Our courtship was over and the wedding day was upon us. We were going to climb this monstrous peak, and we were going to do it for KY, if nothing else!