Highlights of the 2011 BOLD Trip and a Preview of 2012!

Highlights from BOLD's 2011 Cotopaxi expedition with a preview for Pico de Orizaba 2012!

Favorite Parts of the Trip!

A quick video (thanks to Corrine) of everyone's favorite times in Ecuador:

Team Soledad: Summit Day, 1/12/11

There is an old adage that says “a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” While this has long become somewhat of a cliché, the sentiment accurately encapsulates my climb to the summit of Cotopaxi. Roused from my bed in the black of the night, listening to the howling wind, I quickly dressed, wearing my lucky marathon shirt, and proceeded to fuel my body with watery strawberry yogurt and frosted flakes. Breakfast was a sugary sweet beginning to what would be a long and arduous journey. Travelling by myself with my guide Fausto, I was given the name ‘Team Soledad.’ While I was relieved that as a single person, I would be able to set my own pace, which I knew would be slower than that of the group; I did feel sad that I would not have the company or support of a buddy to help carry through the difficult climb. Nonetheless, as a person of faith, I found comfort in my belief that people are given the exact challenges they need to grow and develop.

Alongside Fausto, I began my ascent. Climbing the mountain, the stars in the sky were so bold and bright. Unfortunately, however, after a few hours, what became more prominent, were the lights from fellow climbers’ headlamps above me, foreshadowing the steep incline of the path ahead. A pivotal moment for me occurred at around 3:30 AM, half way into the climb, when I saw Angie coming down due to altitude sickness. Despite not feeling well, Angie was in great spirits, reporting that the rest of the group was about 2 ½ hours ahead but that it was “really beautiful up there.” My heart sank and thoughts of defeat entered my head. I knew that I wanted to make it to the top, but 2 ½ hours seemed like an eternity, and I knew that the last hour was the most difficult part of the climb. Fausto forewarned me that not only would the trek be steep but also that the snow would be soft, and I would have trouble finding my footing. Despite the discouragement, I told Fausto that I was determined to continue. My commitment to myself was that I would not quit unless I was experiencing severe physical symptoms of altitude sickness: vomiting or terrible headache. I knew that I would not let the mental challenge block me from achieving my goal. Fausto said “ok, vamos mas rapido. We cannot climb past 8 am, because of the risk of an avalanche.” Onward we went, climbing higher and higher.

Night turned into day as we reached the final stretch of the hike. Being able to at last see the path ahead was intimidating, but fortunately, as I got closer, I was greeted by the warmth of the group resting en route down to the bottom. The cheers and hugs made all the difference. Group members forewarned me that the next half hour would be difficult, but I knew that they had all made it, and that I could make it too. I approached what I thought was the summit-an almost vertical ice wall-and dropped my pack. Fausto turned to me and said, “Es possible?” I saw Nikki and Kirsten coming down and I said “Si, es possible!” I climbed up on all fours, took out my camera and began snapping away. Then, Fausto started walking further. I was excited to explore and ran into Jake and Shal, who reported that team Naked Chocolate Spoons were following behind. It was at that moment that I realized I was at a false summit. Disheartened and exhausted, I followed Fausto to the next part of the climb. I was greeted by soft, steep snow and was not in the best of spirits. However, sure enough the team N.C.S. was descending, giving me the determination to go on. Again, I climbed the path to what I would find as a second false summit. I could not believe that there was still more to go! Fortunately, there was another guide with two Swiss girls immediately ahead. Seeing me struggle, one Swiss girl cried out “come on, it’s 8 meters. You’re a woman-you can do it.” I knew that she was right. Again, on all fours, I climbed up and before I knew it, I felt like I was on top of the world! I made it! In the broad daylight, I could see the spectacular crater and the amazing mountainous landscape. At that point, I began to feel the altitude, and my head was pounding and stomach queasy. Luckily, the Swiss girl again came to my rescue with a cup of tea and cookie. The day’s mission was accomplished, and at 7 and change hours, I set a record of my own. All I could think was how happy I was to be alive!

Written by Marcy

Team Section 4 Gentlemen: Encounters at the Summit

Jake with Cotopaxi in the background.

With bonds forged at the beginning of 2009, Jake and Shal formed a team with an already-present strong foundation. Copper and tin - strong on their own, but stronger together. Proudly representing the classy side of Section 4, the two were roped together and set off on Cotopaxi towards the back of the pack.

The initial going was easy - a bit fun, maybe - Jake aided by a solid four hours of sleep and Shal aided by the motivation to not be within earshot of Jake (who was singing along to his iPodic source of motivation for much of the trip). We quickly conquered the first portion of the trip, stopping for a brief rest and for our stoically silent guide (Falco? I seriously never got his name) to rope us together - Jake in the middle; Shal at the end.

The grueling trip began in the inky blackness disrupted only by the surprisingly-sprawling Quito skyline. Step left, step right, lean on the ice axe. Repeat. Repeat, and repeat. Breaks were taken liberally, as we were cognizant of the last push being the toughest. A typical scene was Shal resting his legs and staring down from whence we came as Jake popped more caffeine and bobbed to the beat of his music, scared of sitting down should he not have the energy to rise once more.

2 A.M., 3 A.M., 4 A.M.... the hours ticked by with little changing save the Big Dipper slowly creeping up from the horizon. Upon reaching a particularly precarious spot - a path about a foot wide with a steep drop off, the mental games became hardest. The headlamps ahead of us were so elevated - impossibly high - how were we to climb this? It became even more important to focus on just the next steps and motivating each other, but our impassive guide remained ever impassive - his eyes seemingly challenging us. "Get up. GET UP. I do this three times a week."

We pushed on in a dream-like trance. Dawn began to break only to cruelly reveal the hardest part of the climb - a 10 or 15 meter scramble up a steep ice wall that required scaling on all fours.

Shal: "I have nothing left in me."

Jake (yelling to himself as much as Shal): "LET'S GOOOOOOOOOO"

Music playing is the intro to Sweet Child of Mine

With the guide tugging Jake and Jake tugging Shal, away we went - plant, plant, kick, kick, climb. Repeat, repeat, and repeat until we crawled over the edge. Turning our eyes upwards, we began to see the first several groups on the climb downwards. Inspired as much by their ascent as not wanting to let them down, onward we went.

About 30 minutes later, we rounded the corner to see Niki and Kirsten in awesome spirits on top. We exchanged hugs and a kiss or two, then were immediately overwhelmed by the majesty of the view.

Jake sank awestruck to his knees staring into the rising sun as we hovered several thousand feet above the strato-cloud level. This was a view and accomplishment both of us will hold for the rest of our lives.

CONGRATS BROTHER! WE DID IT!!!

Team 西安戰士 (Attempt) Summit Post

View of Summit from the Refugio

For a second, I thought Cotopaxi was an illusion. Covered in glistening snow, the summit seemed so near yet it was so far away. Eyeing the summit from the Refugio, I told myself repeatedly “This is it!”, I pictured myself climbing Cotopaxi, and before long, I was actually climbing the volcano under starlight (and headlamp light).



Learning how to use crampons and ice axes

Navin and I formed the group 西安戰士 (translation: Xi An Warriors). With steady steps and a lot of crampons and ice ax actions, we completed the first one and a half hours of the climb and reached the glaciers. At that point our guide, Marco, roped Navin and I to him and told us that we had four more hours to go. As each minute passed, we got higher in altitude and breathing got more difficult. From 17,000 ft onwards, I was in constant battle with the altitude. I was hyperventilating, my head started spinning, and I was collapsing uncontrollably every couple of steps I took. It was very scary. This part of the climb made hiking from the parking lot to the Refugio seemed so sweet and lovely. Millions of thoughts went through my mind, I told myself I did not go all the way to Ecuador not to summit, I thought of KY (who got injured from the bike ride), I thought of the team, I thought of my friends and family. I tried to concentrate on the music I was listening to, I tried drinking from my frozen water supply, I tried mowing down a chocolate bar… Finally, Marco had to let Navin join Team Naked Chocolate Spoon as each recovery from my collapse took longer and longer.

With a slower pace, I pushed on further, I remembered the ice caves, I remembered the cliffs, I remembered the ice bridges, funny how I couldn’t shut out the breathtaking view of Cotopaxi even when my head was about to explode. At around 5,600m (or 18,300 ft), I finally had to turn back as I was literally out of breath. I was 2.5 hours away from the summit. Yes, it was disappointing when I realized I wouldn’t be able to summit after all the efforts I had put in. But, I was proud of myself for pushing my limits and did not give up right away. After all, 18,300 ft was my personal altitude record! I am extremely proud of all my teammates who reached the summit; they have inspired me (especially you, Marcy!). I had added a new goal in life: Summit Cotopaxi.


Going down the mountain was more memorable than going up; I could almost feel air pushing its way into my lungs as I stumbled down Cotopaxi. It was apparent that I couldn’t balance myself, so Marco had me lay down on my back, and he told me to “just slide”. Sliding on glacier was SOOOO FUN, though at the time, I was less capable of appreciating the fun part of glacier sliding. Bumpy ice lumps were not my favorite part of the ride, however, I did not have the time or the energy to be concerned about rashes or bruises. Catching me by surprise, the sun rose from the side of the mountain as I was speeding down the glacier, again, I did not have the time or the energy to take a picture (bummer). I can only imprint that view in my memory; it was too magnificent for words.

Being on the highest active volcano on Earth was amazing so as being part of the first WILD team. I have learned more about team building and leadership within these 8 days than the time I have spent in all my management classes combined (a.k.a. Program Management and Management Principles). Why aren’t we replacing those classes with WILD expeditions yet?

Now the more important question: Who wants to climb Cotopaxi with me???

Team Chocolate Naked Spoons: 1/12/2011, Summit Day

Kat, Corinne, and Navin take on Cotopaxi:

(Cotopaxi's steep shadow)

 11:00pm on Jan 11^th. I wake up to the sound of Marco, our lead guide, telling us to gear up. This is it. All of those stadium bleacher runs and hikes around Quito were all in preparation for this moment. We have quasi-slept for a few hours at the Jose Ribas Refugio, basecamp for the Cotopaxi climb at 15,840 feet. Breakfast is served at this odd hour: pepto bismal-colored yogurt with generic corn flakes and hot tea. We are psyched and hoping to reach the summit at 19,347 feet, but aware that our bodies might not be up for the challenge. Our primary goal is to return back down the volcano safely. The wind is howling, but the sky is clear. So far, the weather is on our side.

12:00pm on Jan 12th. Gear check: ice axe, plastic boots, crampons, gators, harness, headlamp, three warm layers on the bottom, four warm layers on the top, gloves and hand warmers. I-pods are ready with techno playlists and snacks are accessible. Corinne and I (Team Naked Spoons) are the last team ready to go. Each of us has chosen a buddy of similar endurance to summit with. Corinne wisely chose me over her boyfriend, as that could have resulted in neither of them summiting or a nasty breakup. With enthusiasm and excitement, we join the rest of our crew. The 14 members of team WILD, plus 7 local guides, click on our headlamps and slowly proceed one by one up the world’s highest active volcano.

We flawlessly walked in unison, employing the German step technique with our ice axes that our guides taught us the day before. Our movement resembles a slow-motion, three-point sideways shuffle straight uphill. After an hour and a half we stop so that buddies could be roped into their guides. Corinne and I are tied to Juaquin, a suave Ecuadorian with great patience for our already adopted “slow and steady” mantra.

(Watch your step!)

Each team set their own pace, with the Heroes in a Half Shell (Barrett, Ryan, and Andrew N) taking the lead. Corinne and I held up the caboose and added team member, Navin (our chocolate spoon), when Angie unfortunately began feeling ill. For the next several hours, we, Team Chocolate Naked Spoons, climbed the ever-steeper slope, continuing the sideways shuffle while trying to keep a consistent pace and not get tangled in each other’s rope. I couldn’t help but mention every time we passed a deep crevasse that was surely an expressway to the depths of the volcano. Corinne, fearing vertigo-induced vomiting, gently reminded me that she did not want to be made aware of these impressive sights. The snow glimmered like Swarovski crystals and we could not distinguish the bright stars from the glow of the other Team WILD headlamps higher up the mountain. I knew we were getting really high when I kept mistaking Jupiter’s bright reflection for a flashlight on the top of a nearby mountain. Again I was distracted by the lights of Quito in the distance, growing larger with every foot of elevation we gained. After nearly loosing my footing several times from these breath-taking nighttime vistas, I decided it was best to keep my head down and avoid a dangerous misstep into an endless abyss.

(The Chocolate Naked Spoons: Navin, Corinne, Kat)

We all had bouts of nausea and exhaustion, brought on by this relentless climb to reach the stars, but fortunately it was not enough to sway our determination to continue. Short breaks were essential for our team’s morale and energy level. We tried to refuel with delicious dark chocolate, Lara, and Cliff bars, but our bodies rejected these normally delicious treats. Juaquin brilliantly packed hot water in a thermos which he graciously shared with Kat and Navin. We had foolishly only brought camel back bladders, with water hoses that froze almost instantly in these conditions. With the sun now peeking over the horizon and Jauquin estimating 45 minutes until we reached the summit, the Chocolate Naked Spoons cranked up our most danceable playlists and reached for our prized reserve fuel: caffeine-rich energy goo. These items, combined with hard-headed determination, were going to get us through the toughest stretch which included a vertical ice wall climb. After 45 minutes Juaquin recalculated and told us to expect yet another 45 more minutes until the top. Fortunately, our spirits were lifted as we passed Team Gordo (Tripp and Andrew D), Team Turtles in a Half Shell (Ryan, Andrew N, Barrett), and Team Bad A** Blondes Nail Her (Niki and Kirsten), who had made it to the summit and were on their way back down. Their encouragement gave us the much-needed motivation we required for the final section of the final ascent.

(We got this, no big deal)

Those last steps to the top were a blur. I was panting like a golden retriever to keep oxygen flowing to my lungs. Dizziness. Nausea. Delusion. And then suddenly- I realized where we were. The top! Corinne and I collapsed in exhaustion and tears fell as we took in the beauty around us. Navin stayed quiet, but I know he was in awe of this surreal moment. We made it!

 

(Sign for Kristin at the summit. You were there in spirit, KY!)

After catching our breaths, we realized that team members Jake and Shal were also at the top. We all exchanged high fives and grabbed the camera in a feeble attempt to capture the panorama views from (arguably) one of the highest points on earth on a beautiful, sunny morning. The volcano’s crater was just below us now, emitting sulfur-rich fumes. We rejoiced in our success for about ten minutes before we remembered that we were gasping for oxygen and it was time to head back down for thicker air. See the video below:

(Ominous Cotopaxi Crater)

I am the only one that claims this, but the hardest part of this climb was coming down. Exhaustion as well as the steep slope, combined with weak knees makes the descent perhaps more dangerous than the ascent. Juaquin moved me to the back because my legs turned to Jello. Navin led us down to a point where Jauquin decided it was safe to unleash us. He instructed me how to slide down safely by self-arresting with my ice-ax, in order to save my knees from further pain. Corinne and Navin, however, somehow never got this training and proceeded to slide uncontrollably like ragdolls for several hundred feet, terrifying on-lookers. They finally came to a stop, but neither one was moving. I was frozen with fear until suddenly, I saw Navin pull himself to his feet and Corinne gesture something with her arm. It was a close call, but everyone was still in one piece, thankfully.

(Corinne takes it all in)

About 20 minutes later we have all reunited at the Jose Ribas Refugio, exhausted and elated, but intoxicated and proud to have officially dominated Cotopaxi. We are ready and deserving of hot showers and cold beers to celebrate this victory. The Chocolate Naked Spoons cannot wait for the next WILD adventure!

(Cotopaxi, from the porch of Secret Garden Hostel- Thanks for everything Caroline!)

Team Equipo Gordo: 1/12/2011, Summit Day

Team "Equipo Gordo," made up of Tripp, Dietrich, and Pancho, summitted the great Cotopaxi just as the sun broke the horizon. It was a grueling climb, but well worth the effort. Due to Dietrich's size (he was actually called "gordo" not "grande" and given the largest climbing belt) we were given the stoutest guide, Pancho (aka Panchito). Further, Tripp was carrying an extra 20+ lbs. of weight up the mountain in ski gear. We were undeniably the heaviest team on the mountain. Thus, Equipo Gordo was fitting. We started out strong weaving between crevasses under the clear, starry sky. We followed the headlamps of team Heroes in a Half Shell as they twisted up the slopes. But Tripp grew more and more exhausted under the weight of the skis on his back. At a 45 degree incline, it was no light load. Dietrich was bolstered by a bronchodilator (inhaler), which allowed his lungs to devour the limited oxygen up there.


At around 18,000 feet, Tripp was feeling pretty awful (headache and nausea) and jettisoned the skis in an icy overhang. We managed the last few steep pitches and met Barrett, Andrew N, and Ryan on the summit. The views were incredible - not even pictures can do justice to that sunrise. We were at the closest point on earth to the stars as the sun peeked over the horizon. We made a short celebration and then began the long descent. Niki and Kirsten summitted just as we were heading down. Seven had made it! Ten minutes further, we crossed paths with Jake and Shal as they hacked away at the steep slopes and made their final push. Nine were within reach! We were jacked up about the strength of our group. Incredible. A little further down, Kat, Corinne and Navin were charging up the slopes. Unbelievable! Not fifteen minutes later, we crossed paths with Marcy, who was steadily pushing forward. Thirteen were within grasp of the summit. We were in awe at the sheer will power of our group to get up Cotopaxi.


Equipo Gordo breaked at the overhang where Tripp had dropped his skis. He was untethered from our rope for his descent. He was feeling better now. Tripp managed to ski a few sections where crevasse danger was minimal. The snow was terrible, but at least he got to ski on the highest active volcano in the world! Dietrich and Panchito came down behind, enjoying the early morning view and the novelty of a skier on Cotopaxi.


All in all it was a great experience with extraordinary people - we can't wait for the next WILD adventure!

Written by Tripp and Dietrich