Kat, Corinne, and Navin take on Cotopaxi:
(Cotopaxi's steep shadow)
11:00pm on Jan 11th. I wake up to the sound of Marco, our lead guide, telling us to gear up. This is it. All of those stadium bleacher runs and hikes around Quito were all in preparation for this moment. We have quasi-slept for a few hours at the Jose Ribas Refugio, basecamp for the Cotopaxi climb at 15,840 feet. Breakfast is served at this odd hour: pepto bismal-colored yogurt with generic corn flakes and hot tea. We are psyched and hoping to reach the summit at 19,347 feet, but aware that our bodies might not be up for the challenge. Our primary goal is to return back down the volcano safely. The wind is howling, but the sky is clear. So far, the weather is on our side.
12:00pm on Jan 12th. Gear check: ice axe, plastic boots, crampons, gators, harness, headlamp, three warm layers on the bottom, four warm layers on the top, gloves and hand warmers. I-pods are ready with techno playlists and snacks are accessible. Corinne and I (Team Naked Spoons) are the last team ready to go. Each of us has chosen a buddy of similar endurance to summit with. Corinne wisely chose me over her boyfriend, as that could have resulted in neither of them summiting or a nasty breakup. With enthusiasm and excitement, we join the rest of our crew. The 14 members of team WILD, plus 7 local guides, click on our headlamps and slowly proceed one by one up the world’s highest active volcano.
We flawlessly walked in unison, employing the German step technique with our ice axes that our guides taught us the day before. Our movement resembles a slow-motion, three-point sideways shuffle straight uphill. After an hour and a half we stop so that buddies could be roped into their guides. Corinne and I are tied to Juaquin, a suave Ecuadorian with great patience for our already adopted “slow and steady” mantra.
(Watch your step!)
Each team set their own pace, with the Heroes in a Half Shell (Barrett, Ryan, and Andrew N) taking the lead. Corinne and I held up the caboose and added team member, Navin (our chocolate spoon), when Angie unfortunately began feeling ill. For the next several hours, we, Team Chocolate Naked Spoons, climbed the ever-steeper slope, continuing the sideways shuffle while trying to keep a consistent pace and not get tangled in each other’s rope. I couldn’t help but mention every time we passed a deep crevasse that was surely an expressway to the depths of the volcano. Corinne, fearing vertigo-induced vomiting, gently reminded me that she did not want to be made aware of these impressive sights. The snow glimmered like Swarovski crystals and we could not distinguish the bright stars from the glow of the other Team WILD headlamps higher up the mountain. I knew we were getting really high when I kept mistaking Jupiter’s bright reflection for a flashlight on the top of a nearby mountain. Again I was distracted by the lights of Quito in the distance, growing larger with every foot of elevation we gained. After nearly loosing my footing several times from these breath-taking nighttime vistas, I decided it was best to keep my head down and avoid a dangerous misstep into an endless abyss.
(The Chocolate Naked Spoons: Navin, Corinne, Kat)
We all had bouts of nausea and exhaustion, brought on by this relentless climb to reach the stars, but fortunately it was not enough to sway our determination to continue. Short breaks were essential for our team’s morale and energy level. We tried to refuel with delicious dark chocolate, Lara, and Cliff bars, but our bodies rejected these normally delicious treats. Juaquin brilliantly packed hot water in a thermos which he graciously shared with Kat and Navin. We had foolishly only brought camel back bladders, with water hoses that froze almost instantly in these conditions. With the sun now peeking over the horizon and Jauquin estimating 45 minutes until we reached the summit, the Chocolate Naked Spoons cranked up our most danceable playlists and reached for our prized reserve fuel: caffeine-rich energy goo. These items, combined with hard-headed determination, were going to get us through the toughest stretch which included a vertical ice wall climb. After 45 minutes Juaquin recalculated and told us to expect yet another 45 more minutes until the top. Fortunately, our spirits were lifted as we passed Team Gordo (Tripp and Andrew D), Team Turtles in a Half Shell (Ryan, Andrew N, Barrett), and Team Bad A** Blondes Nail Her (Niki and Kirsten), who had made it to the summit and were on their way back down. Their encouragement gave us the much-needed motivation we required for the final section of the final ascent.
(We got this, no big deal)
Those last steps to the top were a blur. I was panting like a golden retriever to keep oxygen flowing to my lungs. Dizziness. Nausea. Delusion. And then suddenly- I realized where we were. The top! Corinne and I collapsed in exhaustion and tears fell as we took in the beauty around us. Navin stayed quiet, but I know he was in awe of this surreal moment. We made it!
(Sign for Kristin at the summit. You were there in spirit, KY!)
After catching our breaths, we realized that team members Jake and Shal were also at the top. We all exchanged high fives and grabbed the camera in a feeble attempt to capture the panorama views from (arguably) one of the highest points on earth on a beautiful, sunny morning. The volcano’s crater was just below us now, emitting sulfur-rich fumes. We rejoiced in our success for about ten minutes before we remembered that we were gasping for oxygen and it was time to head back down for thicker air. See the video below:
(Ominous Cotopaxi Crater)
I am the only one that claims this, but the hardest part of this climb was coming down. Exhaustion as well as the steep slope, combined with weak knees makes the descent perhaps more dangerous than the ascent. Juaquin moved me to the back because my legs turned to Jello. Navin led us down to a point where Jauquin decided it was safe to unleash us. He instructed me how to slide down safely by self-arresting with my ice-ax, in order to save my knees from further pain. Corinne and Navin, however, somehow never got this training and proceeded to slide uncontrollably like ragdolls for several hundred feet, terrifying on-lookers. They finally came to a stop, but neither one was moving. I was frozen with fear until suddenly, I saw Navin pull himself to his feet and Corinne gesture something with her arm. It was a close call, but everyone was still in one piece, thankfully.
(Corinne takes it all in)
About 20 minutes later we have all reunited at the Jose Ribas Refugio, exhausted and elated, but intoxicated and proud to have officially dominated Cotopaxi. We are ready and deserving of hot showers and cold beers to celebrate this victory. The Chocolate Naked Spoons cannot wait for the next WILD adventure!
(Cotopaxi, from the porch of Secret Garden Hostel- Thanks for everything Caroline!)
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